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发表于 2018-8-22 17:27
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有良田美池桑竹之属 无关隘险途封建之私
镇江蒋桥东山村访问记
(中英双语)
2014年第一次南北穿越十里长山莫约也在5月,一路野道抵达米芾书法公园。虽然公园内亭台、碑刻、廊门、牌坊尽显古文化风范,现代改造之气息却盎然期间。如同一名穿着汉服的女郎,手里拿着Iphone 6,坐在一辆BMW车里。层林之间并未觉得隐藏着什么秘密,就像站在书店里草草地翻阅了一本书,封面面还不错,扉页很精美,看一看封底也算整洁。
今天依旧在同一个站点下车,我们没有翻山越岭而沿着一条既不宽敞也不狭隘的小路走进了东山村。在十里长山的怀抱中隐藏着一座世外桃源。此处看山是错落层叠的,近处的几座低矮,背靠的略显巍峨。北侧的冈峦锁住了入口。山围起的平地兴许只有几十亩,郁郁葱葱绿色山屏里尽显多种经济之繁荣:有小桥流水边上的油菜地,豆萁里饱满的菜籽挺挺欲裂,结串的菜杆倒伏一地等待农家收用;有矮排排的茶园,茶树抽出细嫩新芽期待采茶女巧手来摘;有桃树展开绿叶,微风中尽享明媚春光。还有山麓间一大片竹林,林间围着小块农地,不知为了隐秘还是热爱隐者之消停。藤蔓和杂草长满竹林的空隙。杂花生树、鸡犬相闻、阡陌交通,欢快的鸟儿于林间婉转着歌喉。迷茫在乡间春色之中,流连的人会问道这里还有什么秘密吗?
原来这是一个古朴的明清小村,还有一段抗战故事。它最初的闻名来源于一座明代古墓。明武宗年间,丹徒人靳贵刻苦求学获乡试第一、会试第二、廷试第三。后位列朝廷第一文臣。武宗朱厚照,自小顽劣,声色犬马,挥霍无度,却未有子嗣。正德十年,乌思藏入贡,其来使对武宗说,他们那里有一尊活佛能知祸福。武宗遂派中官刘允前去迎接,携锦衣卫官员130人,卫卒及奴隶数千人,光光粮草车马费用就数以百万计。内阁大臣靳贵参与切谏,皇帝不听。后靳贵涉嫌科场监考作弊辞官回家,两年后暴病而亡。武宗南巡江南,亲临靳贵家,参加了他的葬礼。后武宗泛舟北归,嬉戏拉渔网不慎落水,落下肺疾亦不久身亡。镇江城里至今还留存有靳家巷,而靳贵的墓葬之地就在东山村。
村委书记罗永喜带领之下,城市山林一行多人开始了探墓穴之旅。我们先来到一座建于山溪之上的小桥,说是小桥也就几块厚重的巨大墓碑横搭而成。原先众臣于此下马步行前去祭奠的白马拱桥不见了,这块被千人踩万人踏的墓碑原来是清朝四川总督戴三锡的。我不仅设想当时人们很可能将汉人入朝做满人的官员视为叛逆,故如此摆设以踏清官祭明官。向南走了半里地,来到一片青竹林,穿林一条窄窄的野道两侧枝条密布。前行20米得一石龟,半没草丛中,龟背有一方池为前立碑遗留,又前行5米得另一相似石龟。岁月留痕老师言到,此处为靳贵墓墓门,古时若有人前来祭奠定会于此诵读碑文并设下祭品,而后顺着引道前往坟茔瞻仰。再往前并不见坟墓,而出现了一块用筛网围成的自留地,有一老妪看守,说是她自家33年前承包的。此人热心向众人指点了靳贵墓穴原址。离菜畦不远的竹林间突显一方早已被人盗空的墓穴,只留着用来隔离墓道的青石板。罗书记向电台和众人讲述了墓穴被盗的来龙去脉。文化大革命期间,各地木材紧张,农村盛行挖掘古墓葬盗取优质木材打家具的风气。适逢破四旧疯行就有人私自开挖了靳贵墓,盗取材质后又将金器银器交公换得微薄的劳务费。不过既然砸了龟背上驼的石碑,给我的感觉破四旧思想情节十分浓重。
踏出那一方菜畦和青竹林,天空似乎高亮了许多,而众人的心情沉郁下来。反对复古主义固然为民主主义革命之基本精神,但文物保护留存的只不过是历史印迹,它告诉后人我们曾经从哪里走来。文化大革命走向极端主义使无数战火也没有能够破坏的珍贵遗迹几乎一夜荡然无存。一个没有历史的民族就像这菜畦里长的油菜,它们只会一年一年的周而复始却不知道500年前之一幕一幕。当所有的人只为个性的成功而拼搏奋斗却丧失理性反思,那么这个没有末日的世界就是世界的末日。因为人类这种生物将会慢慢淹没在千奇百怪的芸芸众生(物)之中。就像一个人会丧失自我,一个丢失了集体理念和历史审视的社会也会丧失自我。
回到东山古镇的民居,这里成为了一个历史杂合地带。从明砖清瓦到混凝土瓷砖墙面应有尽有。有的只剩下断壁残垣,朽木柱子七歪八斜地立在那里。据罗书记回忆,抗日战争时期这个村子曾经入住了新四军小分队,一日日军从山岗进犯被站岗的新四军小战士发现,他不顾个人安危鸣枪警示,结果帅先中弹牺牲为小分队战士在群众配合下顺利撤离赢得宝贵时间。
这里的田地虽然就像个桃花源,而这里的村民已全然现代气息。小车开进了房前屋后,个私经济也轰烈在屋后房前,也许回家的路上还会看一眼明砖清瓦。不知他们心里的感受如何?觉得那是一座历史的垃圾堆?觉得哪里留存过沉重的回忆?觉得它们在生活中就是让自己在外人面前丢脸?或是感到一种保护的责任?我们不得而知。然而正如有文保观念的人内心觉察到的一样,东山村的遗迹,我市其它历史遗迹,全国各地还有很多类似历史遗迹正在随着老屋的风化而风化,随着梁柱的垮塌而垮塌。在人们的思想中同样的风化和垮塌更为剧烈地进行着。
Enclosed There Are Fertile Land, Elegant Ponds, Bamboos and Mulberries.
Leading There Are Easy Access and Open Mind.
A Retell of the Visit to Village DongShan, JiangQiao, City ZhengJiang
The first time I travel across The Ten Miles Mountain from north to south is in the year 2014. Maybe that falls on another Mayday. We finally reached our destination MiFu Chinese Calligraphy Park through all the wild mountain passes. The pavilions and attics, the stone inscriptions, corridors and memorial archway were all constructed in ancient style, yet I felt modern ancient tinge in it. It looks just like a modern lady dresses herself in Han Chinese clothing while holds an I-Phone6 in the hand and drive in a BMW. I discovered no secrete among those mountain forest. I consider my first acquaintance with the area a mere experience of surveying a book in XinHua Bookstore where I discovered the cover fine, the first page delicate and the conclusion not bad.
Today I got down the bus at the same bus stop while we didn’ttake the same mountain path, instead the team walked into Dong Shan Village by another country road not too wide neither too narrow. Embraced in the Ten Miles Mountain, the village stands like a peach garden outside the secular world. Viewed from the village low land, the mountains possessed a depth, the near ones dwarf and the background high. Two hills on the north locked the village entrance by the roadside. The enclosed land might measures only several dozen mu, while inside this green fences screened peach garden the multi-economic development is booming: Here we can see oil rape fields lay by the side of streams and bridges. The beanstalks full of out-bursting oil seeds. Clusters of the ripe plant fell in the fields waiting to be collected by the farmers. Here we can see dwarf tea gardens, the tea-bushes are budding with tiny fresh leaves waiting to be picked by the hands of Pick Tea Girls. Here we can see peach trees stretching their green leaves and bathing in the spring sunlight. We also discovered acres of bamboo forest inside which hide a small private vegetable garden. Is it the farmer’s secrete or his passion for hermit life? I can not tell. Cirrus and weeds filled the space in the bamboo forest. This is a land of multi flowers and a variety of trees, for country path communication, with dogs barking and cocks crowing as well as the singing of birds for many a kind among woods. May people lost in the country spring ask whether there is any secrete hide in the land?
It is discovered to be an ancient village from Ming and Qing dynasties with primitive agriculture simplicity. There even was an event during the anti-Japanese war. Its original fame derives from a tomb constructed in Ming dynasty. During emperor WuZhong’s reigning, one student by the name of JinGui from DanTu (one of the old name of ZhengJiang) studied hard. He won first place in village test, second place in provincial test and third place in final imperial examination. Then was enrolled for the royal service and listed as number one civilian official in the imperial court. Emperor WuZhong by the name of ZhuHouZhao, is a playboy from very young, stubborn and stupid while squandering and obscenity. In 1515 when a minority by the name of WuSiZang paid their tribute the envoy told emperor WuZhong that there is a living Buddha in his country who can tell fortune. Emperor WuZhong sent an officer named LiuYun to receive the living Buddha along with him was a team of welcoming constituted of 130 royal policemen, several thousands of guards and servants. The mere consummation for accommodation and transportation cost more than a million. The cabinet minister JinGui took part in the proposal against such squander but not taken serious by the emperor. Later JinGui was suspected of cheating in monitoring royal examination and resigned from his royal service. Two years after his return home JinGui fell seriously ill then died. During WuZhong’s south touring, the emperor visited JinGui’s household and took part in his funeral. On the emperor’s way back, he fell into the YangZi River when struggling to play with fishing net. Though he was saved the emperor developed a serious lung problem from then on that caused his quick death after the event. Nowadays in the city of ZhengJiang there is a lane called JinJia in memory of this learned man and his tomb was built inside the bounds of this village.
Under the guide of village party committee’s secretary LuoYongXi, several people from the City Forest Group initiated the exploration to this ancient Tomb. Firstly we stepped on a small bridge over the mountain stream. It is only a so-called bridge for there are only two or three heavy stone tomb stones placed between the two banks. In Ming dynasty ministers would step down their horses here before the original arch bridge and walk to sweep JinGui’s tomb. But the original one had long been dismantled. One of the tomb stones people used to replace the old bridge happen to be the gravestone for DaiSanXi which were stepped on by thousands of men.DaiSanXi used to be a governor of CiChuan province during late Qing Dynasty. I couldn’t help imagining in the old time if a man of Han nationality seeks for an official tile in the Man royal office then it would be seen as treason. The bridge was so designed might to show that people step on the Man officer to respect the Han officer. Half mile further ahead we reached a green bamboo forest. There is a narrow forest path among the bamboos and we scratched all the way by branch leaves. Twenty meters ahead a stone tortoise was discovered bury in the bush. There is a square sink on the back of the tortoise which had been used to fix an inscribed stone tablet. Five meters further ahead we obtained anther similar stone tortoise. An old teacher by the net name of SuiYueLiuHeng told us that the place was the gate of JinGui tomb. In the ancient when someone came to sweep the tomb they will place sacrificial offering shere and read the inscription with respect then walk ahead to admire the tomb itself. But we can not see the tomb behind the gate stones instead there is apiece of small farmland presented with net enclosure. An old woman keeps on guard the field and she said that 33 years ago her family contracted to cultivate this vegetable yard. This old woman pointed us the right direction of the tomb warm heartedly. Appeared not faraway from her field in the bamboo cluster a hollow dug out tomb cave where the only thing we can see is the slate that used to separate tomb room. Secretary Luo told the story to the journalists from TV station and men from City Forest Group that during the Culture Revolution wood for furniture was difficult to get, so in the rural place it used to be a fashion to dig old tomb for the wood. Then in those years there was a political movement called to Break the Four Olds so some people from the village destroyed more ancient tombs in that name. They made private uses of the wood dug out then hand in the gold wares and silver wares for only a few Yuan labor cost. For those men also broke the heavy tombstone I can feel the political enthusiastic of Breaking the Four Olds was rather high.
The village resident’s area reached and we saw it is a historical hybrid zone where the civil quarters vary from Ming and Qing bricks and tiles to modern concrete and ceramics. Some deserted quarters collapsed and there only remain broken walls and messed up fallen pillars. According to secretary Luo’s recount, during the anti-Japanese war,a small of New Fourth Army stationed in the village. One day a fully armed Japanese army was stealing its way from the mountain into the village when their movement was discovered by one young guard of the New Fourth Army. He thought nothing about his personal safety and fired his gun in warning, but soon was shot down by the invaders. His valiant action won sufficient time for the rest of New Fourth Army men to retreat from that village under the help of village men.
Though the environment here looks like a peach garden outside the secular world, the life of the village people are totally contemporary. Private car drove into their private yard and the private economy booming. They may steal a look into those ancient brick and tile structure on their way back home but I can’t tell what they have in the mind then. Do they feel those structures only a pile of waste? Do they recall heavily on their own past years? Do they feel that those debris a shame before the guests or develop a responsibility to protect the culture relic? We can not tell. But we can tell in the minds of culture relic preservation workers, the culture remain of village DongShan and of other parts of the city even of the whole country are decaying and collapsing alone with those bricks and pillars. Further more the concept of ancient culture are decaying and collapsing even more severely in people’s mind. |
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